Team Seppuku

clowntrigger · by **clowntrigger** on 12 Feb 2010 13:10

We got a bit of work done on the Nash. We've pulled the bed and cab off the 620. It's ready if we want to mount the Nash body onto it like a monkey riding an elephant, but we're going to try the engine in the Nash for now. We pulled the engine off the 620 frame. Rolled the Nash in garage and tried to shoe-horn the engine/tranny into it. It’s just about 4” too long. We’re going to separate the pair and put the tranny in, then put the engine in and mate it up. At that point, we’ll see what we need to do for fabrication.

I took the head to Dover Cylinder to have them pressure test it. I should hear from them on Monday (2/15). Hopefully our intermix problem was just a bad gasket.

Got a bunch of tune up parts from RockAuto: filter, plugs, wires. Picked up a carb rebuild from AutoZone. Eric is going to tackle that and give us a fire spewing beast.

Until I can get hold of a welder, we have a ton of little stuff that will keep us busy.
1. Clean all the parts we've removed from the engine
2. Remove the glass from the Nash and sell.
3. Put engine back together
4. Paint car

Still noodling on how to stop the Nash. It has drum brakes. There is a disc conversion option, but nothing written up on the web. There's a guy that sells a video on how to do it, so I may invest in it. It involves MG and/or Sprite parts from what I can gather.

clowntrigger · by **clowntrigger** on 17 Dec 2009 13:47

The frame humps up over the rear axle making the overall height in the back about 6" taller than the front. You don't notice this because they do all that fancy metal work with the bed. After pondering this dilemma for a bit without the benefit of Alcohol, I came up with the idea of maybe, just maybe Lemons was ready for its first El Nashamino. Cut off the back foot and a half after the rear window, Ok, maybe it's closer to 3 feet, and put in a shade tree special truck bed ala the tounge and grove wood. We're going to see what it looks like when we get the cab off (at this rate around end of May) and make a final decision.

clowntrigger · by **clowntrigger** on 22 Oct 2009 12:59

Eric and I will be sanding on the car tonight (Thursday 10/22). It's going to be a short session because the lure of the sander is too much for my boys (soon to be 7 and 3) and keeps them up and out past their bed time. We're going to try to do 2 nights every week until we get it done. Hey, it's a small car, it should take too long.

If you want to stop by and see the car, let me know.

clowntrigger · by **clowntrigger** on 24 Sep 2009 17:31

I'm think it would be better to run a RWD car with manual transmission. Either Front engine or Mid engine.

I found this last week. http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/1376663629.html.

clowntrigger · by **SideWayz** on 24 Sep 2009 17:51

I pulled this from another thread just to make it easy to find. I don't know the year, but I'll see what I can find one I start pulling the crap out of the car.

Front:

Driver's side:

Passenger side:

Back:

Interior:

Interior: (note the correct mouting location and position of the radiator)

Interior:

clowntrigger · by **clowntrigger** on 10 Sep 2009 20:58

It's a pick a parts yard. You go in and pull what you need. Open weekends!

(864) 277-2288
1300 White Horse Rd

9:00 – 5:30 M-F
8:00 – 4:30 S-S

clowntrigger · by **clowntrigger** on 12 Oct 2009 17:37

From http://forums.24hoursoflemons.com/viewtopic.php?id=496

for the tech that is bured in this thread, i'll try to repost and expand upon it:

we're running two kill swtiches, one within reach of the driver, one within reach of safety personell.

our driver's swtich is mounted on the tunnel, next to the shifter, on a panel with our fuel pump and fan toggle and starter button. our witness switch is mounted on the passenger side of the cowl, all by itself. our battery is mounted to the floor board where the back of the passenger seat used to be.

the postive lead from the battery runs to the hot side of the driver's switch. the cold side of the driver's switch is connected to the hot side of the witness switch. the cold side of the witness switch is the distribution point for the run to the main fuse box and the starter, plus new wiring that runs to the ignition switch, and to our fuel pump toggle.

the last 'new' wire is our re-routed altenator charge wire (and this is where most people's tech failures probably come from). it runs from the alternator's output post to the hot side of the driver's switch.

this setup puts all the hot (the constant 12 volt from the battery, and the 'running' 12 volt from the alternator) on one end of the switches, and the all the draw (the car, the starter, the fuel pump) at the other end.

i figure one of two things fail tech:
1) the kill switch interrupts the normal battery cable lead, which does nothing to stop a running alternator from supplying power to run the car.
2) the kill switch interrupts the ignition switch power, which will kill the motor, but does nothing to de-power the non-switched stuff like the fans.

clowntrigger · by **clowntrigger** on 09 Sep 2009 12:47

We need to decide on what car we want to run. From my limited reading, I would recommend a small car with manual transmission. This will save on gas and brakes and be easier to move around the track. That being said, I do have a waiver from the organizers to run the 64 Caddy (http://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/1354638517.html) that Dustin found.

Friday, February 26, 2010

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Friday, February 19, 2010

Thursday, February 18, 2010