Kill switch info
From http://forums.24hoursoflemons.com/viewtopic.php?id=496
for the tech that is bured in this thread, i'll try to repost and expand upon it:
we're running two kill swtiches, one within reach of the driver, one within reach of safety personell.
our driver's swtich is mounted on the tunnel, next to the shifter, on a panel with our fuel pump and fan toggle and starter button. our witness switch is mounted on the passenger side of the cowl, all by itself. our battery is mounted to the floor board where the back of the passenger seat used to be.
the postive lead from the battery runs to the hot side of the driver's switch. the cold side of the driver's switch is connected to the hot side of the witness switch. the cold side of the witness switch is the distribution point for the run to the main fuse box and the starter, plus new wiring that runs to the ignition switch, and to our fuel pump toggle.
the last 'new' wire is our re-routed altenator charge wire (and this is where most people's tech failures probably come from). it runs from the alternator's output post to the hot side of the driver's switch.
this setup puts all the hot (the constant 12 volt from the battery, and the 'running' 12 volt from the alternator) on one end of the switches, and the all the draw (the car, the starter, the fuel pump) at the other end.
i figure one of two things fail tech:
1) the kill switch interrupts the normal battery cable lead, which does nothing to stop a running alternator from supplying power to run the car.
2) the kill switch interrupts the ignition switch power, which will kill the motor, but does nothing to de-power the non-switched stuff like the fans.
for the tech that is bured in this thread, i'll try to repost and expand upon it:
we're running two kill swtiches, one within reach of the driver, one within reach of safety personell.
our driver's swtich is mounted on the tunnel, next to the shifter, on a panel with our fuel pump and fan toggle and starter button. our witness switch is mounted on the passenger side of the cowl, all by itself. our battery is mounted to the floor board where the back of the passenger seat used to be.
the postive lead from the battery runs to the hot side of the driver's switch. the cold side of the driver's switch is connected to the hot side of the witness switch. the cold side of the witness switch is the distribution point for the run to the main fuse box and the starter, plus new wiring that runs to the ignition switch, and to our fuel pump toggle.
the last 'new' wire is our re-routed altenator charge wire (and this is where most people's tech failures probably come from). it runs from the alternator's output post to the hot side of the driver's switch.
this setup puts all the hot (the constant 12 volt from the battery, and the 'running' 12 volt from the alternator) on one end of the switches, and the all the draw (the car, the starter, the fuel pump) at the other end.
i figure one of two things fail tech:
1) the kill switch interrupts the normal battery cable lead, which does nothing to stop a running alternator from supplying power to run the car.
2) the kill switch interrupts the ignition switch power, which will kill the motor, but does nothing to de-power the non-switched stuff like the fans.
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